Lake Como’s Grand Villa Serbelloni is Italy’s Most Elegant Property

Long before filmmaker Federico Fellini produced his 1960 masterpiece, “La Dolce Vita,” evoking a life of indulgence, ancient Romans flocked to Lake Como to express that lifestyle during summer and winter retreats. The poet Virgil, and author and magistrate Pliny the Younger, wrote of their stays on the Lago di Como, in the picturesque setting of the snowcapped Rhaetian Alps.

Today, the area is noted for its cast of part-time celebrity residents, including actor George Clooney, musician Sting and Virgin mogul Richard Branson. They are among the stars who have residences along the tranquil lakeshore.

According to locals, one could spend a lifetime at Lake Como and still not see it all. The shimmering lake is fewer than two hours from Milan by train and a stone’s throw from the Swiss border. Its captivating lakeside enclaves are connected by an intricate ferry system that traverses the lake from one village the next. All towns boast a waterfront marina and grand piazzas.

Como, the largest town, is at the center of the grand lake. Visitors gawk at its impressive Cathedral of Como, erected in 1396 and painstakingly completed in 1740. The allure of medieval walls, imposing Roman towers, cobblestone streets and al fresco dining makes Como one of northern Italy’s most popular tourist destinations.

But Como shares the limelight with other captivating enclaves, including Varenna, Menaggio, Lecco and alluring Bellagio.

The Villa Serbelloni

The next best thing to owning a private villa in Bellagio is a stay at the five-star Grand Villa Serbelloni. The opulent estate was built in 1854 as a summer villa for the affluent Milanese Frizzone family, who escaped city life within the confines of the medieval Bellagio village. Twenty years later, the grand estate was transformed into the most richly appointed hotel in the Como region.

In 1918 the Bucher family of Lucerne, Switzerland, took over the estate and turned it into a five-star hotel. More than 100 years later, the Serbelloni remains in the same family. Indeed, the Buchers have been running opulent chateau-like estates since the 1800s. “The Grand Hotel Serbelloni has been home to its owners and discerning guests, some of who return every year,” said Gianfranco Bucher, the debonair Swiss proprietor. Many of the day to day operations have now been entrusted to his 29-year-old son, Jan.

The younger Bucher crafted his hospitality roots working in London, Namibia, Singapore and of course Switzerland. “We are a family business,” he said. “We are not part of a large chain. We are an old building of the 1800s. This is something unique that our guests appreciate. Our staff does not turn over much, as they understand what a special place this is to work.”

The Bucher family has crafted a palatial holiday retreat amid emerald-green hills at the foot of the snow-capped Alps, adjacent to the lively shoreline village. The Serbelloni is synonymous with Bellagio and the beginnings of Lake Como as a tourist destination.

Doorkeepers, dressed to the nines, welcome new arrivals to the sumptuous Bellagio. The hotel flaunts stately marble columns, period wall coverings, frescoed ceilings in grey and pink tones, antique Persian carpets and Murano crystal chandeliers. Neoclassical and Nouveau art, a Bucher family legacy, adorns the entire estate, with more than 200 prints illustrating their love affair with Lake Como.

The 9,000-square-foot hotel has 95 rooms, 22 suites and 13 residences. Two of the suites were named after guests Winston Churchill and John F. Kennedy. The outdoor rectangular pool, and a beachfront area with lounge chairs, create a private sanctuary for hotel guests.

At the front desk, head concierge Roberto Pirelli greets guests. He embodies the theme of Serbelloni hospitalty. “I have 30 years at the property,” he said. “I started in 1979 and worked until 1990. I took a break but returned in 2000, as I could not imagine working anywhere else. I enjoy meeting guests from around the world.”

The Serbelloni’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Mistral, is helmed by the “father” of Italian molecular cuisine, Ettore Bocchia. He dazzles gourmands with culinary refinement.

While her husband tends to innovative changes in the property, including the kitchen, Dusia Bucher caters to the wellness and fitness spa. She personally tests customized treatments and wellness programs, along with hand-picking all products used in the spa.

Adjacent to the Serbelloni, the vibrant Bellagio village center is filled with local shops and dining experiences. Pirelli recommends dining at Bilacus for local fish and fresh pasta dishes and Ristorante La Punta, noted for its ambiance and lakeside view, for classic Italian dishes. Overlooking the Villa Meltzi is the distinguished Alle Darsene di Loppia, known for its reasonably priced tasting menu. Salice Blu is helmed by award-winning chef Luigi Gandola, who uses locally sourced ingredients and offers many gluten-free dishes.

And don’t miss …

No trip to Como and Bellagio would be complete without a stroll (along the lido of Bellagio) to the lavishly appointed Villa Meltzi gardens. The neoclassical estate and enchanting gardens, with classic Greek statues and sculptures, are a 10-minute stroll from the center of Bellagio.

On the western shores of Como, across the lake from Bellagio (15 minutes by water taxi), is the village of Tremezzo. Its refined Villa Carlotta botanic gardens contain more than 60 species of plants and trees. Neighboring the Villa, taking center stage on the Tremezzo shoreline, is the grandiose Grand Hotel Tremezzo, a palace since 1910. The imposing hotel stands lakeside, with sweeping views of Bellagio and the Villa Meltzi.

Don’t miss hiring a private boat, skippered by an experienced captain, to gawk at villas and to visit more remote villages on the lake. Take a trip to Isola Comacina, Lake Como’s only island; hike the nearly deserted landscape to view the beautiful ruins of the splendid Roman basilica dedicated to Saint Eufemia. For a unique dining experience, visit the Locanda restaurant, where owner Benvenuto Puricelli has a nightly ritual of lighting a concoction of brandy and sugar on fire while telling tales of the curse of the island.

Experience the 11th-century fishing village of Varenna, much more relaxed than Bellagio. Enjoy the serenity that comes from strolling its alleyways while catching glimpses of traditional Como life.

Menaggio is a fairy-tale village adored by all visitors. Its elegant lake promenade is considered among the most picturesque on the lake. Its Piazza Garibaldi is a tranquil refuge to enjoy an espresso with lake views. The church of Santa Marta has period paintings from the 17th century.

Locals and visitors alike marvel at 13th-century Lecco, its medieval center framed by a jagged mountain backdrop. The waterfront promenade is lined with boats. An octagonal bell tower connects to the Basilica of Saint Nicholas. The municipality is filled with historical monuments and imposing villas from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Timeless in style and understated luxury, blessed with a moderate year-round climate, Lake Como is Europe’s crown alpine-lake jewel. Dotted with sleepy alpine fishing villages as well as aristocratic villas, lakeside promenades and the time-skipping Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, it is what a glamorous getaway is all about.