Rwanda is one of the next big things in tourism, and an American couple that has been living in the capital city of Kigali for 15 years has created its top offering.
Josh and Alissa Ruxin first came to Rwanda to work in public health. Alissa saw that hospitality training was non-existent (as were gourmet restaurants). From the ground up, she built Heaven – Kigali’s top restaurant. As Kigali and Rwanda were discovered by travelers, Heaven grew and spawned a boutique hotel. Then came the luxury operators who built incredible resorts close to the gorillas and Rwanda’s spectacular national park. But what of Kigali? The Ruxins had the answer: They built The Retreat and its stunning poolside restaurant, Fusion.
The whole enterprise began with a blind date in Manhattan. Nearly 20 years ago, the couple met in New York City and fell in love. Josh had health projects in Rwanda and so they decided to take an extended honeymoon there. Alissa quickly fell for the potential of Rwanda’s orphan survivors and gleefully shook off the New York winters for a safe and pristine land with very little crime and a temperate year-round climate that rivals sunny California.
Rwanda was still on the mend as scars from one of the world’s most horrific genocides were fresh in the minds of both locals and travelers. But with a forward-thinking president at the helm of the fledgling nation, private investment laid the ground for more significant public health projects and optimism for one Rwanda embracing all its citizens. Alissa would take her skill set to assist orphans of the genocide in need of college education. That, in turn, would lead to jobs that were desperately needed to turn around a demoralized population in the heart of Africa
The opportunity for a phoenix rising existed in its notable tourism hook. Visitors to Rwanda came for one reason: to catch a glimpse of the incredible gorillas upon the misty Volcanoes National Park, as celebrated by American primatologist and conservationist Diane Fossey. Gorilla Safari is and was a significant source of jobs.
Heaven opened its doors in 2008 with an emphasis on hospitality training to create jobs in a growing tourism sector. Indeed, Heaven was the first restaurant–vocational-school designed to assist in teaching young adults ready for employment in the ever-increasing travel industry.
Today, Heaven and The Retreat employ 120 Rwandans. The mantra is: ”Make guests feel welcome and share your culture!.” One of the first things that you notice when you enter The Retreat is the helpful staff, who greet you with smiling faces and a curiosity to know more about where you’re from while thanking you for visiting Rwanda.
Perched on a verdant hillside surrounded by Jacaranda trees, stellar Heaven Retreat is around a 25- minute ride from the airport and a 15-minute walk to the city center of Kigali. The forward-thinking, hands-on owners created the first eco-friendly resort to feature solar power and are at the forefront of transforming Rwanda into a prominent travel destination.
Today the property encompasses a vast stretch of its city block and now includes 11 stand-alone villas at The Retreat and 33 rooms and apartments at Heaven Boutique Hotel. The Retreat has its own private entrance and has a heated saltwater pool with diving rocks in its center.
The Retreat has already hosted political and Hollywood royalty and has been lauded as one of the top new sustainable and luxurious, unique hotels and destinations in the world. To reinforce Rwanda’s great comeback story, rooms come with inspiring names (in the Kinyarwanda language) like “Courage,” “Equality” and “Praise.” Comfy amenities in the Afro-chic rooms include tall ceilings, two relaxing patio areas, large poster beds with mosquito nets, indoor and outdoor rainfall showers, and local artwork. A well-equipped open-air fitness center is available to all guests, along with yoga and Zumba classes, a sauna and meditation room.
There are two equally appetizing menus at both Heaven Restaurant and the more upscale, Napa Valley-style Fusion Restaurant, part of the Retreat wing of the astonishing grounds. Many trials and tribulations accompanied the launch of these palate-pleasing restaurants in a region virtually void of fine-dining.
“The kitchen was one of the toughest challenges,” Josh Ruxin said. “The cooks wanted to cook up ‘Belgian-style’ food – boiled potatoes and unappetizing platters that were one of the lesser artifacts of colonial days. We wanted fusion. Alissa noticed that the dishwasher, Solange, was cooking staff meals in the kitchen. The staff reported that she was indeed the best cook. Promotion granted. Over the years, Solange has trained under Michelin-starred chefs, one of whom asserts that she makes the best risotto a-la-minute anywhere. Not bad for a survivor of the genocide, who is the first member of her family to ever go to university and who is supporting a dozen relatives.”
No vacation to Rwanda would be complete without experiencing local culture in and around the capital. To place a greater emphasis on Kigali as a tourist destination, one of the cleanest cities in Africa and one of the safest on the continent, The Retreat’s tour division, aptly named Heaven Tours, provides bespoke cultural experiences allowing visitors to immerse with local life. Guests can choose from experiential encounters involving fashion, art, culture, nature, epicure, and walking tours, encountering local life while touring the vibrant Nyarugenge Market and shops in Kigali. Of particular interest is a visit to Kimironko Market with Fusion’s executive Mauritian chef. The experience culminates in a cooking class, and you can easily follow that up with meetings with Kigali’s lead designers who can craft an outfit. Don’t miss too the chance to go to a real Rwandan village – this is an authentic way you can catch a glimpse of daily life.
New to the Retreat is an on-site banana beer-brewing facility. Guests can now learn how to make the local brew and indulge in toasts over Banana beer and wine, the preferred spirit of the Rwandan people. More new Kigali-based experiences include an invigorating hike up Mount Kigali where you can mingle with monkeys and meet top artists in their studios.
Heaven Rwanda is conveniently located in Kigali and is the quintessential beginning or ending to any trip to Rwanda. If you’re interested in the Ruxins’ story, check out Josh Ruxin’s book – A Thousand Hills to Heaven: Love, Hope, and a Restaurant in Rwanda – available on Amazon.
Website: www.heavenlyrwanda.com
Accommodations: 31 Rooms on Three Properties. The Retreat has 11 Rooms.
Rates: Rates for Heaven Boutique are $100 – $200, The Retreat is 11 rooms $400 – $800
Book This Hotel: Booking.com
Reviewed by Nicholas Kontis
